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Production - Bridging the gap
HH Magazine - June 2010
One of these alternatives is Sellita. Its three calibres are all clones of ETA movements whose patent is now in the public domain. They are the SW200 range (SW200/ETA 2824; SW 220/ETA 2836; SW 240/ETA 2834), the SW 300 (ETA 2892) and the SW 500 (ETA Valjoux 7750) self-winding chronograph calibre, unveiled at this year's Baselworld. Sellita was, for a long time, one of ETA's main customers: 30% of ETA blanks were assembled by Sellita. This put the firm in a b position to take the plunge and in 2003 set up on its own, manufacturing movements based on Swatch Group's "all-terrain" calibres. Sellita's production is estimated at around a million units.
La Joux-Perret has adopted an identical strategy in a slightly higher-end segment, extending its range with in-house calibres such as a flyback chronograph or a hand-wound movement with a seven-day power reserve. Soprod, which was taken over by the Festina group in 2008, has taken a similar tack. Brands in search of complicated movements can look to Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi, Christophe Claret, Concept Watch Factory or Dubois Depraz...