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SIHH 2015 - Baume & Mercier : under the sign of self-winding

Baume & Mercier files its 2015 under the heading of simplicity. But it is a horological simplicity in the most noble of senses. New references, almost all of them mechanical and self-winding, are added to the brand's main product families. The idea is for the brand to go back to its roots, which have always been about playing with shapes, without extravagance.

Classima is the Baume & Mercier collection with the simplest lines. Its minimalist design has not, however, prevented the brand from revising the design to make them even finer, even subtler and to make them more contemporary. With a self-winding movement with three hands and a date, the Classima is offered in a 40mm diameter for men in an all-steel model or one in steel with a red gold bezel. In both cases, the two-zone dial accentuates its appearance.

For ladies, Classima makes an exception to its mechanical rule by using an ultra-thin quartz movement for the first time. In one version, it displays the time against a background of white mother-of-pearl, in another it adds a moon phase display, with diamond hour markers surrounding the blue of the moon phase window's night sky against a white mother-of-pearl background. But Baume & Mercier committed to a programme of mechanical watches for ladies some time ago, as is seen by the latest Classima models in stainless steel, which have an understated feminine design. They all measure 36.5mm in diameter, which is the universal size for ladies, if such a thing exists.

The Hampton celebrates its 20th birthday and benefits from a fresh look at this rectangular watch. With its Art Deco inspiration and case details, its design is more sophisticated than it looks. Consider, for example, the curved crystal, or the recessed lip of the bezel, or its elongated lugs - all of which show a particular level of attention to detail. In a 31 x 47mm steel case, the Hampton has a white dial that is available with red or white gold hands and hour markers.

Clifton is the most recent Baume & Mercier collection for men and continues to be enhanced with new complications. The Clifton Grande Date includes a power reserve indicator that balances with the big data indication on the large silver dial. The 8-day power reserve version is only available as a limited edition of 185 pieces in red gold. Wit hits manual winding and its noble complication it is a reminder that the Baume & Mercier is prepared to make concessions in its self-winding diet when required by the level of prestige of its models.